From the thunder of Iguazu Falls to the glaciers of Patagonia and the peaks of the Andes, South America delivered one of the most diverse adventures we have experienced in retirement. Join Tom, Laura, and Pink Bear as we explore Argentina and Chile by land and sea aboard an unforgettable Patagonian expedition cruise.
In This Blog:
- Background
- Viking Polaris Ship/ Why We Chose Viking
- Itinerary
- Practical Packing Advice
- Viking Pre-cruise – Buenos Aires Hilton
- Embarkation
- Flight to Ushuaia
- Ushuaia
- Polaris embarkation
- Junior Suite Review
- Restaurant overview
- Pink Bear Retirement Vacation Rating
- Pink Bear Impressions
Background
For the complete background on the 1) Why, 2) Where, and 3) How, refer to our overview blog:
South America is a continent comprising many countries, and it includes the region known as Patagonia. Pink Bear has been fascinated with Patagonia for quite a while, so we decided to start with that area in our planning.
Pink Bear loved researching Patagonia
Patagonia is not a country but a massive region encompassing the southern end of Argentina and Chile.
For Patagonia, an expedition cruise seemed an ideal way for us to explore many areas. Expedition cruising is not inexpensive, but when compared with other premium expedition lines, we felt Viking offered excellent value. The cruise includes lectures, expedition equipment, Zodiac excursions, specialty dining, Wi-Fi, and many onboard amenities that are often additional charges elsewhere. Since we had traveled with Viking River Cruises before and enjoyed the experience, their Patagonian expedition cruise seemed a logical extension. Viking offers a quality product at a reasonable cost. We enjoy their small ships, with innovative design features and the signature Scandinavian décor. The cabins are some of the best-designed and most efficient in the industry, in our opinion.
Viking Polaris
Viking Polaris At a Glance
- Cruise Line: Viking Expeditions
- Capacity: 378 Guests
- Crew: 256
- Built: 2022
- Polar Class: PC6
- Route: Argentina & Chilean Fjords
- Cruise Length: 12 Days
The cruise we selected was on the Viking Polaris, originating in Buenos Aires and ending in Santiago, Chile. The Viking package included an overnight stay in Buenos Aires and a flight to Ushuaia, where we would board the Polaris vessel. Having previously sailed with Viking, we knew we were happy with the brand. For us, that combination of exploration, education, comfort, and adult-focused travel made Viking Polaris an excellent choice for our Patagonia adventure.
When researching expedition cruises to Patagonia and the Chilean Fjords, we considered several well-known expedition lines. While many offer excellent itineraries, Viking stood out for several reasons.
Adult-Focused Experience
One of Viking’s most appealing features is its adults-only philosophy. There are no children on board, no casinos, and no flashy attractions competing for attention. The atmosphere is relaxed, sophisticated, and focused on exploration rather than entertainment.
Purpose-Built Expedition Ships
The Viking Polaris and her sister ship, Viking Octantis, were specifically designed for expedition cruising. Unlike some ships that were adapted for expedition travel, these vessels were built from the ground up for remote destinations and polar operations.
Cabins
Unlike many expedition ships that still offer porthole or window-only cabins, every stateroom on Viking Polaris includes a Nordic Balcony. Instead of an open, step-out balcony, the space is integrated into the stateroom as an indoor sunroom. In colder regions, this is a great alternative to a standard balcony. It allows great viewing while still staying warm.
Viking is known for its understated Scandinavian style. The cabins are exceptionally well laid out and make great use of space. The bathrooms offer a spacious shower, a heated floor, and towel warmers. These little differences make for a much better experience. Having traveled on many other cruise lines, we find the Viking cabins to be among our favorites.
Focus on Science and Learning
Viking places a strong emphasis on education and scientific discovery. The ships feature dedicated science laboratories, extensive lecture programs, and resident experts
Itinerary
The itinerary is another important reason for selecting a cruise, and this one is no different. It gave us a taste of some of our South American bucket list items. It also allowed us to experience Patagonia and traverse Cape Horn.
Since we wanted additional time in Argentina and Chile, we added pre- and post-cruise extension time on both ends. We spent a few days in Buenos Aires and Iguazu pre-cruise, and a few days in Santiago post-cruise
Our South America Itinerary
- Buenos Aires, Argentina (4 days)
- Iguazu Falls, Argentina (3 days)
- Buenos Aires Pre-cruise with Viking (1 day)
- Viking Polaris Expedition Cruise (12 days)
- Santiago, Chile (3 days)
As retirees, we were looking for adventure without sacrificing comfort, and Viking delivered exactly that balance.
This blog is focused on the Viking Polaris expedition journey and embarkation at Ushuaia. For our exciting adventures in Buenos Aires and Iguazu, you can read about them in our other blogs:
Practical Packing Advice
Packing for Patagonia can be challenging because weather conditions can change quickly, sometimes several times in a single day. Layering is the key to staying comfortable.
Don’t Forget a Waterproof Jacket!
One important point that confused us before departure: Viking does not provide the expedition waterproof jacket on the Argentina & Chilean Fjords itinerary. Complimentary expedition jackets are generally reserved for polar voyages such as Antarctica, Greenland, and the Arctic. Be sure to pack your own waterproof and windproof outer shell for Zodiac excursions and shore landings.
What Viking Provides:
- Waterproof boots/A device for removing boots – We did not know what this was until our second excursion it is vital for removing boots
- Waterproof pants
- Small life vest for excursions
- Binoculars
- There is a drying closet for wet clothes in every cabin.
Recommended Packing List:
- Waterproof, windproof jacket with hood
- Insulating mid-layer (fleece or lightweight down jacket)
- Moisture-wicking base layers – For women, I recommend lightweight stretch pants. I purchased several pairs of black and a gray pair. Also, a light undershirt like one from Helly Hanson.
- Comfortable hiking pants
- Warm socks
- Warm hat and lightweight gloves
- Sturdy waterproof walking or hiking shoes, for land excursions’
- Casual clothing for onboard dining and lectures – For women, a couple of nice sweaters or blouses is sufficient.
- Swimsuit for the ship’s pool, hot tub, and Nordic Spa
- Sunglasses and sunscreen
- Small waterproof backpack or daypack for excursions
Camera with extra batteries and memory cards
Viking maintains a relaxed atmosphere onboard. During our cruise, most guests dressed casually during the day and wore smart casual attire in the evenings. Formal nights are not part of the expedition experience.
My Biggest Packing Advice
If you are debating whether to bring an extra layer, bring it. We experienced sunshine, wind, rain, and cool temperatures throughout the voyage. Dressing in layers allowed us to adapt quickly and stay comfortable during both shipboard viewing and shore excursions. For our cruise, the weather was surprisingly warm. Keep in mind this is not a polar cruise, so do not pack for Antarctica-type weather.
Viking Polaris Pre-cruise
Viking cruises are great for retirees because they offer a complete package that typically includes an overnight land stay, so travelers do not feel rushed or risk missing the ship due to airline travel delay. For this cruise, the package included an overnight stay in Buenos Aires. The hotel that Viking selected was the Buenos Aires Hilton. This hotel was very different from the Park Tower, where we stayed before our trip to Iguazu. The Park Tower is a luxury hotel located in the Retiro district with many rooms offering spectacular views. Part of Marriott’s Luxury Collection, the hotel combines classic elegance with modern comforts and serves as an excellent base for exploring Argentina’s vibrant capital. The Hilton is a very large business hotel. One of the Hilton’s biggest advantages is its location. Guests can easily walk to many of Puerto Madero’s highlights, including the iconic Puente de la Mujer bridge, waterfront dining areas, and nature reserves. Although it is near the river, because of the way the building is situated, most rooms do not have a very good view. Although we preferred the Park Tower, we were satisfied with the Hilton as part of the cruise package.
Viking also provides airport transportation, but because we did pre-cruise travel on our own, we did not take advantage of it. We arrived on our own, but there were Viking personnel in the lobby to greet us when we arrived, and a dedicated Polaris cruise deck set up. We checked in at the Viking desk and were given the details of our transport to Ushuaia.
Buenos Aires is a very upscale urban paradise in Argentina, offering beautiful neighborhoods, shopping, restaurants, and museums and galleries. The area around the Hilton was very pleasant.
Travel to Ushuaia
Embarkation for the Polaris for the Argentina and Chilean Fjords, as well as the Antarctica cruises, takes place through the small town of Ushuaia. We traveled to Ushuaia on Jetsmart regional airline, leaving from the AEP domestic airport near Buenos Aires. You can find more information on AEP in our Traveling to Iguazu blog:
Travel day started early. Our bags were transported from the hotel to the plane by Viking and picked up from our hotel room door the previous evening. We were allowed a small carry-on, but we opted for just our backpacks. There were two groups. We were assigned an 8 AM flight with transport at 5:30 AM. A buffet breakfast was provided by Viking in the lobby. We opted for just coffee. We were provided boxed water, and interestingly, for AEP, water is allowed through the checkpoint.
We were transported to the airport on Viking buses and had a dedicated escort. Everything was arranged by Viking, and the escort guided them through the crowded airport and through the checkpoint. We took off on time, and it was an uneventful flight. Ushuaia often has overcast, rainy weather, but we had a nice, partly cloudy arrival. It was lovely flying into the airport.
Ushuaia is a very small airport with only one baggage carousel. We had to pick up our own luggage off the carousel and place it in an assigned location for Viking transport onto the ship. This took a very long time and seemed overly complicated. Also, our bus took forever to load, and we were the last to leave.
The bus at Ushuaia airport will take us to the ship.
We did not go directly from the airport to the ship but were given an introduction to Ushuaia. Known as the “End of the World,” Ushuaia is a tiny town in Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego province. Perched at the southernmost tip of South America between the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel, it is the premier global gateway for expeditions to Antarctica and the Chilean Fjords. The views were spectacular, and we did see some interesting sights.
Because of the delay in leaving the airport, we did not board the Polaris until about 3 pm. I felt this transfer could have been a bit more efficient. But only a minor little snag.
Polaris at the dock.
Junior Suite
On the ship, we went straight to our stateroom on deck 4, cabin 4040, a junior suite. We found this location to be perfect, mid-ship, not too far from the stairway, and very close to the World Café, which is the main buffet dining venue. The junior suite is spacious with a small sitting area divided from the bed area by a bookcase. The bathroom is lovely with a large shower, two sinks, and best of all, a heated floor. Storage is plentiful with two large closets, a drying closet, and tons of drawers and shelves. Suitcases fit easily under the bed. We have two medium and two carry-on items. There is a coffee bar with a Nespresso machine and a fully stocked mini refrigerator. There are tons of outlets with US and EU sockets as well as C and D computer outlets. There is no balcony, but the floor-to-ceiling window slides down. We have stayed in many cabins, including large multi-room suites, and this junior suite is one of my favorites.
Restaurants
Dining venues on the Polaris:
- World Café -Buffet
- The Restaurant – Continental Dining, reservations
- Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant, reservations
- Mamsen’s – Norwegian-style deli and comfort food
- The Grill – Casual dining venue near the pool area
Manfred’s and The Restaurant are “sit-down” restaurants, and reservations are recommended. Passengers can dine at these at no extra charge, but there is a limit to the number of reservations. Junior suites and above are allotted more reservations in these restaurants.
The food quality on Viking cruise ships is typically exceptional, and the food on Polaris was no exception. We took a galley tour, which will be described in a later blog, and were very impressed with the management and quality in all the restaurants. We ate in all the restaurants over the 12 days on the ship, and we did not have a bad meal. The staff was also first-rate. Also of note, coffee and tea are available 24-hours from the excellent machine at the entrance of the World Café.
For our first evening, we opted to eat our dinner in the World Café. There are so many choices; the grilled-to-order steaks and lobster tails are a highlight.
We had a beautiful sailaway from Ushuaia.
Hope you liked this overview. These are only a few of the many gorgeous things we experienced. We will next be blogging on our arrival in Argentina and more pictures of our accommodations, tours, and expedition cruise.
Other South America Travel Blogs
- Arriving in Buenos Aires/City Sights
- Tigre Delta Excursion
- Touring Iguazu Falls
Future South America Travel Blogs
- Life aboard Viking Polaris
- Cape Horn Landing
- Expedition landings and Zodiac adventures
- Submarine Adventure
- Santiago
- Zapallar/Penguin Island
- Travel planning tips and costs
Future blogs will provide more detailed information on the Polaris. You can find all our past and future blogs on our South American Journey page:
Pink Bear Retirement Vacation Rating:
⭐ Retirement Comfort Level: 10/10 – Viking is a wonderful choice for active retirees
⭐ Adventure Level: Calm/Moderate/Active – Viking does a wonderful job accommodating all levels of fitness
⭐ Pink Bear Approved: Yes
An expedition cruise, with an extensive pre- and post-extension, is not for the timid traveler. It is a wonderful and exciting journey for active retirees looking for moderate adventure traveling in upscale comfort.
Pink Bear Impressions:
⭐ Hilton Buenos Aires is a large business hotel in a great location. Preferred the Park Tower for its view and luxury, but liked the area around the Hilton better.
⭐ Transfer to Ushuaia – Handled moderately well except for the bus transfer to the port in Ushuaia, which seemed overly complicated (luggage transfer) and bus delays.
⭐ Polaris first impression is that it is a beautiful state-of-the-art vessel.
As the Viking Polaris pulled away from Ushuaia and headed into the Beagle Channel, we knew this was going to be far more than just another cruise. Ahead of us were glaciers, fjords, Cape Horn, Zodiac landings, and some of the most remote landscapes on Earth. We hope you’ll join us as we continue sharing the adventure.