This blog is about our post-cruise stay in Santiago, Zapallar/Penguin Island Day trip. To read about all our other South American Adventures, including our Viking Polaris expedition cruise, go to:
In This Blog:
- Introduction – Disembarkation
- Santiago- Accommodations and City Sights
- Penguin Island Fishing Boat Trip – It’ll be fun! She said
- Lunch on the Coast
- Zapallar Coastal Walk
- Final Thoughts
- Practical Tips
- Pink Bear Rating
Introduction – Disembarkation
After we disembarked the beautiful Viking Polaris for the final leg of our South American Adventure, we spent a couple of days in Santiago. As retired travelers we have the luxury of time so we like to fully experience a region.
The ship docks in the Valparaiso region. Be aware that if you pre-book transport from the Polaris, there are two ports in the “Santiago area”, equidistant from the city, but in different directions. Both service cruise ships. Transport and cruise companies sometimes use confusing phrasing like “San Antonio (Valparaiso)” or list a transfer destination as “San Antonio, Valparaíso, Chile,” Or they sometimes refer to one as San Antonio Valparaiso, and the other just Port of Valparaiso. For our cruise, the Viking Polaris docked at the Port of Valparaiso, NOT San Antonio. Be sure you carefully check the docking location for any cruise that docks in Santiago.
I pre-booked and paid in advance for transport from the port to Santiago. Unfortunately, I picked the wrong port. The company was very nice, but I lost all my money. There is a stand in the terminal that provides transfers, and I ended up getting a transfer there. In my opinion, you do not need to pre-book a transfer to Santiago. It was the same price, and there were plenty of cars available.
Santiago – Accommodations/City Sights
Santiago, Chile, is a modern metropolitan area framed by the Andes Mountains. As the country’s capital and largest city, it seamlessly blends history, arts, and a dynamic financial center. Because we are Marriott Bonvoy platinum elite, we selected the Santiago Marriott. We were very happy with the choice. It is in an upscale area of the city. Our two-room executive suite was spacious, and it had an outstanding view of the Andes mountains.
View from our suite
We like to get an overview of major cities when we arrive, so we decided to jump right in and take a half-day city tour through Tours by Locals. Victor, our guide, did a wonderful job of taking us to local places as well as the key tourist spots. We visited one of the larger fruit markets, Plaza de Armas, the Metropolitan Cathedral, and Recoleta Cemetery. We drove past San Cristobal Hill, which we visited later on our own, via a lovely cable car and funicular.
Fruit Market – due to the volcanic nature of the soil, fruits and vegetables are very large.
Recoleta Cemetary
San Cristobal Hill – Cable Car/Funicular and Shrine of the Virgin Mary
A not-to-be-missed attraction when visiting Santiago is San Cristobal Hill and the Shrine of the Virgin Mary at the top. We recommend taking the cable car up and the funicular down to get a complete experience.
Cable Car
Shrine of the Virgin Mary
At the top of the hill is an immense statue, a church, and a gift shop. The view from the top is incredible.
To get the full effect of this attraction, we recommend taking the cable car up and the funicular down. The funicular is fun!
Zapallar and Penguin Island – “Let’s go see penguins in Chile! “It’ll be fun!” She said
Zapallar is an exclusive, coastal resort town in Chile’s Valparaíso Region. Located roughly two hours northwest of Santiago. It is often referred to as the “Malibu of Chile”. One of things that attracted us to visit Zapallar is “Penguin Island” off the coast.
Penguin Island, officially known as Isla Cachagua, is a protected Nature Sanctuary located roughly 80 to 100 meters off the coast of Cachagua, just south Zapallar, Chile. It serves as a vital nesting and breeding ground for the endangered Humboldt penguin. Visitors are not allowed on the island, but the penguins can be viewed from the coast or to get a better view from boats. To go by boat, you must charter an authorized local wooden fishing boat or book guided nautical excursions. These trips circle the sanctuary to let you observe the penguins, sea lions, and seabirds without disturbing them. The best time to visit is November through March, when the penguins are breeding.
We hired a guide through Tours by Locals. Roberto was an excellent guide for this day trip. We were picked up early and drove about 2 hours to the Cachagua. The scenery at the coast town was lovely.
Laura and Tom enjoying coastal views
Roberto took us to the boat dock. We were surprised that the boat was a small wooden fishing boat. We carefully got in the boat. Pink Bear was carefully tucked in the waterproof backpack for this one. We were seated on wooden benches and instructed to hold on it could be a bit rough. Well, that was an understatement. Penguin Island can be seen from the shore, but the ride there turned out to be anything but relaxing. The swells were large and boat was pounding in the surf. As I sat there, I believed I had killed us with this excursion. It seemed like a great idea when I booked it but as we bounced and bobbed our way to toward the island, I wasn’t so sure.
It was a terrifying ride, but when we arrived the sight of the penguins was well worth it! We visited in mid-March and there were so many penguins many with babies!
Humboldt Penguins!!
I guarantee I took all these pictures from bouncing fishing boat and the are 100% real!
We returned to the dock, and I felt blessed to have experience this magical sight, even if it almost killed us!!! It was one of the highlights of our South American journey. The entire trip out to the island and back took about an hour.
After we docked, we found out the captain of the fishing boat almost turned back. It was a particular rough trip due to the wind and a recent offshore storm. I’m glad we did not know this getting in the boat.
After our amazing penguin journey, we headed to a coastal restaurant for lunch.
Lunch on the Zapallar Coast
Zapallar Coastal Views
After lunch we took a walk and we drove along the coast.
Final Thoughts
Our time in Santiago and Zapallar was the perfect ending to an incredible South American adventure. Santiago offered beautiful mountain views, interesting history, and a chance to slow down after our Viking Polaris expedition. But the real surprise was Penguin Island.
What started as a simple plan to see some Humboldt penguins turned into one of the most exciting excursions of the entire trip. The boat ride was far rougher than we expected, and there were moments when I questioned my decision-making skills. But seeing dozens of penguins, including babies, in their natural habitat made every bounce, splash, and moment of panic worthwhile.
As we headed back to Santiago, I realized this excursion perfectly captured our travel philosophy. Sometimes the best memories come from the adventures that don’t go quite according to plan. After all, some of our favorite stories begin with the words, “It’ll be fun,” she said.
Practical Tips
- Dress in lightweight clothing but bring a light waterproof jacket
- To get a close look at the Humbolt penguins hiring a licensed fishing boat and guide
- The boat ride is not recommended for those prone to motion sickness as it can be quite rough
- Bring a camera with a large zoom to get pictures of the penguins but keep in firmly strapped to your neck as it is rough
- Coast views from Zapallar are wonderful
- Have lunch at a local restaurant
Pink Bear Retirement Vacation Rating:
⭐ Retirement Comfort Level: 10/10 for Zapallar, 4/10 for boat ride to island
⭐ Adventure Level: Calm, for shore excursion, Adventurous for boat
⭐ Pink Bear Approved: Yes, but for the boat hold on tight.