Table of Contents
Trip Background - A Story of Friendship
We met in Egypt! What does that have to do with France, you might ask? Quite a lot, as it turns out.During a trip to Egypt, we happened to meet Gail and Eitan in a Marriott club lounge. We immediately hit it off and soon discovered we were all going on the same Nile River cruise. What began as a chance meeting turned into a wonderful friendship. Even more surprisingly, our paths crossed again in some unexpected places—including a remote tent camp in Kenya! None of us had planned to meet there; we just happened to be visiting at the same time. After several coincidences like that, we decided perhaps we were simply meant to travel together.
Since then, we've tried to plan a friends' trip each year. This time, our destination was France and Germany's Black Forest. We wanted the freedom of a road trip without constantly packing, unpacking, and changing hotels. Instead, we chose several strategic home bases that would allow us to explore Paris, Champagne, Alsace, the Alps, and Burgundy, with excursions into neighboring Germany. Our goal was to see as much as possible while still enjoying the journey. We'd combine private guided tours with independent sightseeing, giving us both flexibility and the benefit of local expertise. Of course, Pink Bear was eager to get involved in the planning, so I quickly put her to work researching how we could make it all happen!
France at a Glance
Before planning our adventure, Pink Bear decided to learn a little about France's history, geography, and culture. With so much to explore, she certainly had her work cut out for her!France has a fascinating history, from medieval castles and magnificent royal châteaux to the French Revolution and two World Wars. Its diverse landscapes range from the rolling vineyards of Champagne and Burgundy to the majestic Alps and picturesque villages of Alsace.Each region also has its own unique traditions, architecture, and cuisine, reflecting centuries of history and cultural influences. We were excited to experience this diversity firsthand as we traveled through France and ventured into neighboring Germany.
Planning a French Road Trip Without Constantly Changing Hotels
Pink Bear approached this trip using our familiar Five W’s—who, when, where, where to stay, and what to do. Our guiding principle was simple: explore widely without having to pack up and change hotels every night.
The Five W's
Who is Going: Our annual friends’ trip brought together Laura, Tom, Gail, Eitan, and, of course, Pink Bear!
When to Go: We chose October to accommodate everyone's schedules, enjoy autumn sightseeing, and coordinate with our Marriott Vacation Club reservation near Paris.
Where to Go (Choosing our route and home bases): Rather than trying to cover all of France in three weeks, we selected a handful of home bases: Paris, Bailly-Romainvilliers, Strasbourg, Annecy, and Dijon. Each allowed us to explore nearby attractions without changing accommodations every night.
Where to Stay (Accommodations): We chose a combination of Marriott hotels, a Marriott Vacation Club property, and an apartment in Dijon, balancing comfort, location, and convenience. One lesson we learned during planning was that two advertised bathrooms don't necessarily mean two toilets! After checking the details, we changed two apartment reservations to hotels.
What to Do: We focused on history, magnificent châteaux, picturesque towns, regional food and wine, and a few special interests, including a Black Forest distillery visit. We combined private tours with independent sightseeing to enjoy both local expertise and flexibility.
Transportation and Guide Services
We flew nonstop from Newark to Paris on United Airlines. For our road trip, we shared the cost of a rental SUV. Although we reserved a Peugeot, the rental company provided a comparable Renault instead, which worked out fine. Having our own vehicle gave us flexibility but required careful parking arrangements.
We booked private guides through ToursByLocals and Viator for selected excursions. In Strasbourg, we used the same guide for three days, which worked particularly well.
Schedules and Planning Tools
With five home bases and numerous day trips, staying organized was essential! Pink Bear maintained a master spreadsheet covering flights, accommodations, driving routes, tours, and reservations. Having everything in one place made managing the itinerary much easier.
Practical Information for Visiting France
Before our trip, Pink Bear researched a few practical details to help us prepare. Here are some things worth knowing before visiting France!
Currency
France uses the euro. Credit cards are widely accepted, but we recommend carrying some cash for smaller purchases.
Electricity
France uses 230-volt electricity and primarily Type E outlets. Most modern phones, tablets, and laptops only need a plug adapter, but some American hair appliances may also require a voltage converter. We generally use the hair dryers provided by our accommodations.
Parking
Historic city centers often have narrow streets and tight parking garages, particularly challenging with a larger SUV. Researching parking facilities in advance was essential.
Dining Hours
Many restaurants close between lunch and dinner, often from approximately 2:00 or 2:30 PM until 7:00 PM. We learned to plan our meals around these schedules!
Packing for Autumn
October weather varied considerably between Paris, the countryside, and the Alps. Layers, comfortable walking shoes, and waterproof jackets were essential.
Our French Road Trip Adventures
With all the planning finally behind us, Pink Bear was more than ready to begin our French adventure! She jumped into her backpack, and off we went!
Of course, Pink Bear has become quite accustomed to traveling in style! Ever since her first business-class flight, she's been hooked! She particularly enjoys the Polaris Lounge at Newark Airport, with its wonderful salad bar, followed by her comfortable lie-flat seat for the overnight flight. After years of working hard, we feel that a little luxury is one of the pleasures of retirement!
Paris - Revisiting Some Unfinished Business
We began our French adventure with a couple of days in Paris before meeting Gail and Eitan. On our previous visit, a transit strike prevented us from visiting Versailles, and Monet's Gardens in Giverny were closed for the winter. This time, we were determined to see both, along with another visit to the Eiffel Tower!
Paris Marriott Champs Elysees
We selected the Paris Marriott Champs-Élysées for its excellent location and were fortunate to use Marriott points to help make our stay more affordable. While the entrance was surprisingly understated, the lobby was quite grand.
Our recently renovated room was lovely, clean, and comfortable. However, the balcony city view we paid extra for was disappointing. Although we could see the roof of Sacré-Cœur in the distance, I wouldn't recommend paying a premium for this room category based on our experience.
Our First Afternoon - The Eiffel Tower
We arrived early for our prebooked tickets, giving us time to relax beneath the tower with café au lait, tea, and chocolate-filled beignets. Sitting there on such a beautiful day was simply magical!
We then took the elevators to the summit, where the clear skies provided spectacular views of Paris. Although the tower was busy, the lines moved reasonably well, and we thoroughly enjoyed our visit.
Afterward, we had a lovely dinner at Le Grand Corona, where Pink Bear particularly enjoyed her margarita! We ended our evening with a stroll along the Champs-Élysées to the Arc de Triomphe—a wonderful beginning to our French adventure.
Versailles
We booked a private tour through ToursByLocals to visit Versailles and Giverny in one day. Arriving early at Versailles, we took a brief walk through the magnificent gardens, still covered in morning fog. We decided to return after touring the palace, hoping the skies would clear.Having a private guide with prearranged tickets was well worth it! We bypassed the long regular line and were among the first visitors inside, allowing us to enjoy the spectacular rooms without the usual crowds. By the time we returned to the gardens, the fog had lifted, revealing a completely different view of the beautiful grounds.
Giverny - Stepping into a Monet Painting
After Versailles, we headed to Giverny, where we enjoyed a lovely lunch at a café just outside Claude Monet's home. Then it was time to explore the house and beautiful gardens that inspired so many of his famous paintings.Walking through the gardens was like stepping into a Monet painting! Seeing the famous Japanese water garden was especially magical. We were also fortunate to visit the house between tour groups, allowing us to wander through the colorful rooms without large crowds. October turned out to be a wonderful time to visit!
Champagne Region and Loire Valley - Royal History, World Wars and Champagne
Blérancourt – A Franco-American Connection
Our first stop after meeting Gail and Eitan and picking up our rental car at Charles de Gaulle Airport was Château de Blérancourt, home to the Franco-American Museum. The museum explores the relationship between France and the United States, particularly American humanitarian efforts during World War I.
We especially enjoyed learning about Anne Morgan's work in France. Although her pavilion was closed, the wonderful museum staff opened it just for us! It was a memorable beginning to our French road trip.
Our Home Base in Bailly-Romainvilliers - Marriott Vacation Club
After visiting Blérancourt, we headed to the Marriott Vacation Club near Disneyland Paris in Bailly-Romainvilliers. It was an excellent home base for exploring the surrounding regions. The property had beautiful grounds, and we stayed in the Giverny section, overlooking a lovely, landscaped lake.
Reims - A City of History
Our first day trip was to Reims, where we enjoyed a private walking tour. Highlights included the magnificent Notre-Dame Cathedral, where French kings were crowned, and the Museum of the Surrender, where Germany signed its unconditional surrender in May 1945. It was fascinating to explore two very different chapters of French history in one city.
Pommery Champagne House - Exploring the Chalk Cellars
After sightseeing in Reims, we visited Pommery Champagne House. The highlight was exploring its remarkable underground chalk cellars and learning about champagne production. We finished with a tasting—a lovely change of pace after our history-filled morning! Pink Bear certainly enjoyed the opportunity for a little bubbly!
Chateau de Fontainebleau
Our next adventure took us to the magnificent Château de Fontainebleau, a royal residence that was home to French monarchs for centuries. We spent a couple of hours exploring its beautifully decorated rooms and elaborate furnishings before heading into the gardens. On a gorgeous autumn day, with the leaves beginning to change, wandering through the gardens was perhaps our favorite part of the visit!
Orleans - The City of Joan of Arc
On our way to the Loire Valley, we made a brief stop in Orléans, a historic city closely associated with Joan of Arc. We enjoyed exploring the city and seeing its impressive cathedral, which celebrates her important role in French history.
Clos Luce - Leonardo da Vinci's Final Home
One of our Loire Valley highlights was Château du Clos Lucé in Amboise, where Leonardo da Vinci spent the final years of his life. We explored his former residence and the beautiful grounds, filled with models of his remarkable inventions. We especially enjoyed wandering through the expansive gardens on a sunny autumn day, admiring the changing colors and discovering Leonardo's creations. We enjoyed it so much that we spent nearly three hours there, leaving us without enough time to visit Château d'Amboise as originally planned!
Verdun - Remembering World War I
One of our most powerful experiences was visiting Verdun, the site of one of World War I's longest and deadliest battles. We began at the extensive Verdun Memorial Museum, where exhibits brought the realities of the 1916 battle and the soldiers' daily lives into sharp focus.
Our next stop was Fort Vaux, perhaps the most memorable part of our visit. Walking through the fort gave us a much deeper appreciation of the unimaginable conditions the soldiers endured.
We finished at the Citadel, where a virtual reality presentation offered another perspective on life during the war.Verdun was an extraordinary and deeply moving experience. I highly recommend visiting these sites to better understand the human cost of World War I.
Epernay - Avenue de Champagne and Mercier Champagne House
On our way to Strasbourg, we stopped in Épernay to explore the famous Avenue de Champagne, a beautiful street lined with elegant champagne houses and impressive architecture. After a relaxing lunch, we visited the Mercier Champagne House, where we enjoyed a tasting of four different champagnes. It was a lovely way to end our time in the Champagne region before continuing to our next home base in Strasbourg.
Strasbourg and the Black Forest - Exploring Across Borders
Strasbourg - A Fairy Tale City
Our next home base was Strasbourg, where we stayed at the lovely Maison Rouge, a boutique Marriott hotel in the heart of the Old Town. It was an excellent location for exploring Alsace and neighboring Germany. Strasbourg quickly became one of our favorite destinations! With its colorful half-timbered houses, picturesque canals, and magnificent Notre-Dame Cathedral, wandering through the Old Town felt like stepping into a fairy tale. We especially enjoyed exploring Petite France and discovering the charming shops and restaurants.
Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg - A Medieval
Our first tour outside Strasbourg took us to Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg, a magnificent medieval fortress overlooking the Alsace plain. Exploring the castle gave us a glimpse into medieval life, and the views on our gorgeous sunny day were spectacular!
Pink Bear had quite an adventure herself when she managed to get stuck in a cannon! Fortunately, we rescued her, but she spent the rest of the day safely tucked away in her backpack!
A Day in Germany's Black Forest
Being so close to Germany, Pink Bear decided we couldn't pass up an opportunity to explore the famous Black Forest! Tom was also hoping to visit the Monkey 47 Gin distillery, but our guide, Carine, discovered that tours were no longer available. Fortunately, she arranged a visit to another local distillery.
Gengenbach - A Storybook German Town
Our first stop was Gengenbach, a picturesque town filled with colorful half-timbered houses, cobblestone streets, and charming squares. Walking through the Old Town felt like stepping into a storybook!
We also visited St. Mary's Church, once part of a Benedictine abbey. Its beautiful interior, with ornate decorations and an impressive altar, was an unexpected highlight of our visit.
Wild Distillery - A Taste of the Black Forest
Our next stop was Wild Distillery, where we toured the facilities and sampled several locally crafted spirits, including gin, wine, and egg liqueur. And, of course, Pink Bear enjoyed getting involved in the tasting!
Natzweiler-Struthof – Remembering a Dark Chapter of History
One of our most emotional experiences was visiting Natzweiler-Struthof, the only main Nazi concentration camp established on what is now French territory. We toured the museum and preserved camp with a private guide, whose explanations were invaluable because much of the written information was not available in English.
Walking through the camp and learning about the terrible suffering endured by its prisoners was deeply moving. It was a sobering experience that brought the horrors of World War II into sharper focus and reminded us of the importance of remembering and honoring those who suffered and died there.
Heidelberg Castle – A Highlight of Our Trip!
Our visit to Heidelberg Castle was one of the highlights of our trip! Perched above the city, this magnificent castle offered spectacular views of Heidelberg and the Neckar River, despite the earlier rain.
We explored the impressive courtyard, including the enormous wine barrel, and visited the fascinating German Pharmacy Museum, with its collection of historic pharmacies, medicines, and equipment. With my background in chemistry, I particularly enjoyed this unexpected discovery!
Annecy - Lakeside Beauty and French History
After the history-filled first portion of our trip, Annecy offered a lovely change of pace. Often called the Venice of the Alps, this picturesque town is known for its charming canals, colorful buildings, and beautiful lake surrounded by mountains.
Exploring Annecy's Old Town
We arranged a private one-hour walking tour through Tripadvisor the evening before our visit. Our guide took us through the charming Old Town, where a lively outdoor market was filled with fresh produce, cheeses, meats, crêpes, olives, candy, and local specialties.
We wandered along the picturesque canals and saw the famous Palais de l'Île, one of Annecy's most recognizable landmarks, before continuing to the beautiful lakefront.
Cruising on Beautiful Lake Annecy
After our walking tour, we enjoyed a relaxing 1½-hour cruise on Lake Annecy. It was a gorgeous sunny day, around 60°F, so we sat outside and enjoyed the spectacular mountain scenery and charming lakeside communities. Although the commentary was in French, a phone translation option was available.
Lyon - World War II History and Spectacular Views
Our first stop in Lyon was the Resistance and Deportation History Centre, which explores the French Resistance, Nazi occupation, and deportations during World War II.
The museum contains an enormous amount of information. I found several displays particularly interesting, including concentration camp uniforms, objects made by prisoners, and reconstructions of a wartime home and printing shop. However, after about half an hour, I began to feel overwhelmed by the sheer volume of information and found it difficult to absorb much more. Personally, I think it is best suited for visitors with a strong interest in this period rather than casual visitors or younger children.
Afterward, we took the F2 funicular up to the magnificent Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière. The basilica was spectacular, but the panoramic views overlooking Lyon were equally impressive!
Burgundy Region - Beyond the Wine
Our final destination was Burgundy, a region famous for its vineyards, historic towns, and culinary traditions. We discovered that Burgundy had much more to offer than wine and mustard!
Royal Monastery of Brou – An Architectural Treasure
One of our stops was the magnificent Royal Monastery of Brou in Bourg-en-Bresse. This 16th-century monastery is known for its elaborate Gothic architecture, beautiful church, and remarkable royal tombs. We especially enjoyed admiring the intricate stonework throughout this impressive monument.
Dole – Louis Pasteur's Birthplace
In the charming town of Dole, we visited the birthplace of Louis Pasteur, whose scientific discoveries transformed medicine and microbiology. His childhood home is now a small museum dedicated to his life and accomplishments. As a chemist who studied many of his discoveries in school, this was a particularly meaningful stop for me!
Edmond Fallot Mustard Mill – A Taste of Burgundy
Of course, a visit to Burgundy wouldn't be complete without some Dijon mustard! We visited the Edmond Fallot Mustard Mill in Beaune, where we learned about traditional mustard-making methods and, naturally, sampled some mustard!
Route des Grands Crus – Exploring Burgundy's Wine Country
We spent part of a day exploring Burgundy's famous Route des Grands Crus, passing through picturesque villages and vineyards glowing with autumn colors. We also visited Château de Marsannay for a glimpse into Burgundy's celebrated winemaking traditions.
Château de Savigny-lès-Beaune – A Château Full of Surprises!
One of Burgundy's most unusual attractions was Château de Savigny-lès-Beaune, where historic château rooms and beautiful grounds share space with extraordinary collections of vintage vehicles, motorcycles, and other mechanical treasures.
We enjoyed exploring the various museums and château interiors. With something different around every corner, it was certainly one of the more unexpected highlights of our time in Burgundy!
Dijon – Following the Famous Owl Trail
Our final home base was Dijon, where we stayed in an apartment in the heart of the charming Old Town, just minutes from Notre-Dame Church and the city's famous owl carving.
One of our favorite activities was following the Owl Trail (Parcours de la Chouette), a self-guided walking route marked by small bronze owls embedded in the sidewalks. We had great fun following the markers through the historic streets and trying to photograph every stop along the way!
There was so much fascinating history to discover that Pink Bear decided the Owl Trail deserved its own detailed blog, complete with descriptions of the individual stops and our photographs.
Auxerre – Just One More Stop!
As we headed back toward Paris and the airport, we thought our sightseeing was finally finished. But Gail had other ideas! Determined to squeeze in one more stop, she asked ChatGPT for a suggestion, and wouldn't you know it, ChatGPT recommended Auxerre!
So off we went for one last adventure! We spent about an hour strolling through the charming town and enjoying lunch before continuing our journey. Apparently, between Gail and ChatGPT, there was no such thing as enough sightseeing!
Pink Bear's Retirement Vacation Ratings ⭐🧸
After three weeks exploring France and neighboring Germany, Pink Bear had quite a few places to rate!
Our ratings reflect our personal experiences—how interesting, enjoyable, and worthwhile we found each destination—not their historical importance. Everyone has different interests, so what wasn't our favorite might be perfect for someone else!
Champagne Region and Loire Valley
⭐ Château de Blérancourt – 10/10: A fascinating look at Franco-American history, made especially memorable by the wonderful staff who opened the Anne Morgan Pavilion just for us!
⭐ Château de Fontainebleau – 10/10: Magnificent royal interiors and beautiful autumn gardens made this a favorite.
⭐ Clos Lucé – 10/10: Leonardo da Vinci's home and fascinating inventions kept us exploring for nearly three hours!
⭐ Orléans – 8/10: A pleasant historic stop with a strong connection to Joan of Arc, although our visit was brief.
⭐ Reims – 9/10: A fascinating combination of royal history, magnificent architecture, and World War II history.
⭐ Pommery Champagne House – 9/10: The remarkable underground chalk cellars were as memorable as the champagne tasting.
⭐ Verdun Memorial Museum – 9/10: An extensive and moving presentation of the Battle of Verdun and soldiers' daily lives.
⭐ Fort Vaux – 10/10: An extraordinary experience that brought the realities of World War I into sharp focus.
⭐ Verdun Citadel – 7/10: An interesting virtual reality experience, although we found the museum and fort more compelling.
Strasbourg, Alsace, and Germany
⭐ Strasbourg – 10/10: A magical city of half-timbered houses, beautiful canals, and wonderful Alsatian cuisine.
⭐ Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg – 10/10: Fascinating medieval history, spectacular views, and an unforgettable Pink Bear adventure!
⭐ Black Forest – Gengenbach and Wild Distillery – 10/10: A storybook German town paired with a fun and memorable distillery visit.
⭐ Natzweiler-Struthof – 10/10: A deeply moving and educational experience made especially meaningful by our knowledgeable guide.
⭐ Heidelberg Castle – 10/10: Spectacular architecture and views, with the fascinating German Pharmacy Museum as an unexpected highlight.
Annecy and Lyon
⭐ Annecy – 9/10: Charming canals, a lively Old Town market, and a beautiful, relaxing lake cruise.
⭐ Resistance and Deportation History Centre, Lyon – 8/10: An extensive museum best suited to WWII enthusiasts; its information-heavy exhibits were somewhat overwhelming for casual visitors.
Burgundy and Our Final Stop
⭐ Royal Monastery of Brou – 10/10: Extraordinary Gothic architecture, intricate stonework, and remarkable historic interiors.
⭐ Louis Pasteur's Birthplace, Dole – 8/10: An interesting look at the life of a groundbreaking scientist, especially for those interested in science and medicine.
⭐ Dijon – 10/10: A beautiful historic city, with the self-guided Owl Trail providing a wonderful way to explore independently.
⭐ Edmond Fallot Mustard Mill – 9/10: An enjoyable introduction to Burgundy's mustard-making traditions, complete with tasting.
⭐ Château de Savigny-lès-Beaune – 10/10: An extraordinary combination of château interiors, beautiful grounds, and unusual vehicle and motorcycle collections.
⭐Auxerre – 8/10: A charming final stop for a short stroll and lunch, thanks to Gail's determination to squeeze in one more adventure
Tips for Planning a French Road Trip
After three weeks of exploring France, we learned a few lessons that might help others planning a similar adventure!
- Choose your home bases carefully. Select convenient locations for day trips rather than changing hotels every night. This worked wonderfully for us!
- Allow extra driving time. GPS estimates weren't always accurate, particularly when we encountered traffic, road closures, or smaller roads.
- Research parking in advance. Historic city centers often have narrow streets and tight garages, especially challenging with a larger SUV. Check parking restrictions and availability before arriving.
- Consider the EasyPark app. We found it helpful for paying at participating parking facilities without navigating unfamiliar payment machines.
- Use private guides selectively. Guides were especially valuable at historical sites and for multiple-stop excursions. Smaller towns were often just as enjoyable to explore independently.
- Check restaurant and attraction hours. Many restaurants close between lunch and dinner, while museums and other attractions may have unexpected closing days. Plan accordingly!
- Read accommodation descriptions carefully. Two bathrooms don't necessarily mean two toilets, and an elevator doesn't always eliminate stairs! Check reviews and ask questions before booking.
- Pack for changing weather. Layers, comfortable walking shoes, and waterproof jackets were essential during our October trip.
- Expect the unexpected! Leave room for spontaneous discoveries, changes in plans, and a little adventure. Sometimes those moments create the best memories!
Final Thoughts – A French Adventure to Remember
What an incredible three weeks! From magnificent châteaux and charming medieval villages to beautiful vineyards, spectacular scenery, and deeply moving World War history, France offered an amazing variety of experiences. Our excursions into neighboring Germany made the adventure even more memorable.
Our plan to explore France from a handful of home bases worked wonderfully! Although we encountered some long driving days, tricky parking situations, and unexpected challenges, combining our rental car with carefully selected private guides gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace.
Some places, like Strasbourg, Heidelberg Castle, and the gardens of Giverny, were simply magical. Others, particularly Verdun and Natzweiler-Struthof, left us with a deeper appreciation of history and the sacrifices made by earlier generations.
But perhaps the best part was sharing it all with Gail and Eitan. Who would have imagined that a chance meeting in a Marriott lounge in Egypt would lead to so many adventures together? From Pink Bear getting stuck in a cannon to Gail insisting on one last sightseeing stop in Auxerre, we shared plenty of laughs and made memories we will always treasure.
Would we plan another road trip this way? Absolutely! We might allow a little more time between destinations, but choosing a few comfortable home bases was a wonderful way to explore so much of France.
And as for Pink Bear, she's already wondering where our next adventure will take us!
After all, retirement isn't about slowing down—it's about having the freedom to explore the world on your own terms.