IN THIS BLOG
- Our Day Trip to Kilkenny and the Wicklow Mountains, Including Working Sheepdogs
- Transportation: Logistics of a Day Trip from Dublin to Kilkenny and the Wicklow Mountains Without a Car
- Overview
- Visiting Kilkenny
- Town Overview and Our Experience
- St Canice’s Cathedral
- A Little History
- Our Experience
- Kilkenny Castle
- A Little History
- Our Experience
- Irish Working Sheepdogs
- A Little Background
- Our Experience
- Wicklow Mountains
- A Little Background
- Our Experience
- Guinness Lake and
- P.S. I Love You Bridge
- Glendalough
- Pink Bear Retirement Vacation Rating
- Final Thoughts
- Tips
Our Day Trip to Kilkenny and the Wicklow Mountains, Including Working Sheepdogs
With a surname like O’Grady, it is not surprising that Ireland was on our bucket list. The funny thing is that we are mostly Italian. Our surname comes from Tom’s grandfather, who was Irish. But we love being Irish, even if just in part. We were all so excited to finally be visiting the birthplace of our ancestors, even Pink Bear. This day trip to Kilkenny and the Wicklow Mountains was part of our larger family journey through Ireland. You can read about the entire journey on our Ireland Page of Pink Bear’s Retirement Adventures.
Transportation: Logistics of a Day Trip from Dublin to Kilkenny and the Wicklow Mountains Without a Car
One of the biggest challenges we faced when planning our Ireland journey was transportation. We wanted the freedom to explore beyond the major cities, but we had no desire to rent a car and tackle unfamiliar roads ourselves. At the same time, spending the day on a large tour bus with dozens of other people was not exactly our idea of independent travel.
Kilkenny and the Wicklow Mountains seemed particularly difficult to combine from Dublin without a car. We are active travelers, but we are not hikers, and simply getting transportation into the mountains would not have given us the flexibility we wanted. We like having the freedom to stop, explore and spend different amounts of time at each place.
That is when we discovered another option. We hired a private guide for the day and were able to explore Kilkenny, the Wicklow Mountains and several stops in between at our own pace — without driving ourselves or joining a large group tour.
Of course, private tours can be expensive, so throughout our travels we try to find guides who provide the personal experience we want at a reasonable price. If you have been following our adventures, you know we like Tours By Locals. After reviewing the available tours, we decided to book the same guide for all of our day trips from Dublin. We chose Brian Hennessy of Dubh Linn Tours. Brian was an excellent guide — personable, knowledgeable and very good at providing just the right amount of information throughout the day.
Overview
Our day trip from Dublin combined three very different sides of Ireland — medieval history, traditional rural life and the beautiful scenery of the Wicklow Mountains. That variety turned out to be one of the things we enjoyed most about the day.
We began in Kilkenny, where we explored the medieval streets, visited St. Canice’s Cathedral and Kilkenny Castle, and still had time to enjoy some of the cafés, shops and local atmosphere. From there, we continued to Irish Working Sheepdogs, where we learned about sheep farming and watched highly trained Border Collies at work on a family-run farm.
The final part of our day took us through the extraordinary landscape of the Wicklow Mountains, with stops that included Guinness Lake, the P.S. I Love You Bridge and Glendalough. Each part of the day felt completely different, yet together they provided a wonderful combination of history, Irish culture and spectacular scenery.
Visiting Kilkenny
Town Overview and Our Experience
Kilkenny is one of Ireland’s most charming historic cities, with a compact center that feels almost like a small medieval town. Narrow streets, colorful shopfronts, old stone buildings, traditional pubs, and church spires give it a wonderful sense of atmosphere, while cafés, restaurants, and local shops keep the city lively and welcoming.
Known as Ireland’s “Medieval City,” Kilkenny grew into an important center of trade during the Middle Ages and still retains much of that historic character today. The heart of the city is the Medieval Mile, a walkable stretch connecting many of Kilkenny’s historic sites through streets that have been used for centuries.
We spent some time simply wandering through the streets of Kilkenny and enjoying the medieval atmosphere. Of course, Pink Bear was especially happy when we stopped for coffee and a scone. There happened to be an arts festival and street market taking place while we were there, so we also enjoyed browsing the Irish crafts and local food stalls. Before leaving Kilkenny, we stopped for a glass of wine at a local bar while we waited for Brian to pick us up for our next activity. Kilkenny was one of those places where we enjoyed simply slowing down and taking in the surroundings. The historic streets, colorful shops, cafés and lively atmosphere made it a wonderful place to spend a few hours.
Pink Bear loves scones and coffee, so Kilkenny was one of her favorite places!
The Local Arts Festival and a Brief Stop for a Glass of Wine
St Canice’s Cathedral
A Little History
St. Canice’s Cathedral is one of Kilkenny’s most important historic landmarks and has stood at the heart of the city’s religious life for centuries. The present cathedral dates mainly from the 13th century and was built on a site with much earlier Christian roots, associated with St. Canice, a 6th-century Irish monk who gave Kilkenny its name.
The cathedral is a fine example of medieval Gothic architecture and has survived centuries of political and religious change. Over time, it became closely connected with the Church of Ireland, and today it remains an active place of worship as well as one of the city’s most significant historic sites. Its long history, ancient monuments, and surrounding grounds make it an important stop for understanding Kilkenny’s medieval past.
Beside St. Canice’s Cathedral stands a remarkable 9th-century Round Tower, one of only a small number of medieval Irish round towers that visitors can still climb. Rising about 100 feet above the cathedral grounds, the tower once served as a lookout and refuge as well as a bell tower for the early Christian settlement.
Visitors can climb to the top for panoramic views over Kilkenny, but this is not a typical staircase climb. Access is by a series of very steep wooden ladders inside the narrow tower, and the space becomes increasingly confined as you go higher. Anyone uncomfortable with heights, ladders, or tight spaces should keep this in mind before attempting the climb.
Our Experience
Our first historic stop in Kilkenny was St. Canice’s Cathedral. We spent some time exploring the cathedral, admiring the architecture and walking through the surrounding graveyard. Inside, there were interesting displays and information about both the cathedral and the history of Kilkenny.
Rob and I also decided to attempt the climb up the Round Tower, while Tom and Pink Bear wisely stayed behind. Even though I knew the climb involved steep ladders and tight spaces, I thought I would be able to manage it. I made it more than three-quarters of the way up before the combination of the confined space, steep ladders and height became too much for me, and I turned around and climbed back down.
Rob continued all the way to the top. I was disappointed that I did not make it, but I was also very glad I listened to my instincts. The climb is not for everyone, and anyone who is uncomfortable with heights, ladders or confined spaces should seriously consider whether it is right for them.
Climbing the Round tower
Kilkenny Castle
A Little History
Kilkenny Castle has dominated the city for more than 800 years and is one of Ireland’s most recognizable historic landmarks. The first stone castle was built in the early 13th century by the powerful Anglo-Norman Butler family, who would remain closely connected with Kilkenny for centuries.
Over time, the castle changed from a medieval fortress into a more comfortable aristocratic residence, with major renovations reflecting changing architectural styles and the growing wealth of the Butler family. By the 19th century, much of the castle had been transformed into the grand aristocratic residence visitors see today.
The Butler family eventually left Kilkenny Castle in the 20th century, and in 1967 it was transferred to the people of Kilkenny for the symbolic price of £50. Today, the restored castle and its extensive parklands offer a fascinating look at both medieval Ireland and the later lives of one of the country’s most influential noble families.
Our Experience
We spent about an hour exploring Kilkenny Castle. There is an admission fee, but we did not need to purchase tickets in advance.
We especially enjoyed this castle because so much of the interior has been restored and furnished. After visiting several castles in Ireland that were largely ruins, it was a nice change to walk through decorated rooms and get a better sense of how the castle would have looked when it was used as a grand family residence.
The rooms are richly decorated with period-style furnishings, artwork and architectural details, and the Long Gallery was particularly impressive. For us, the beautifully restored interior made Kilkenny Castle one of the more memorable castles we visited in Ireland.
Exterior of the Castle
Lavishly Decorated Interior of the Castle
Irish Working Sheepdogs
A Little Background
Irish Working Sheepdogs is located on a working sheep farm in the countryside along the Wicklow–Kildare border. The farm offers visitors a chance to experience a small piece of traditional rural Irish life while watching highly trained Border Collies do the work they were bred to do.
Our Experience
The sheepdog demonstration was one of the most enjoyable and unexpected experiences of our day — and Pink Bear loved it too. Because our visit was private, the experience felt very personal and relaxed.
The owner was both informative and personable. He explained how the Border Collies are bred and trained, demonstrated how they respond to different commands, and talked about what it is really like to operate a sheep farm today. He and his wife run the farm with the help of their dogs, and it was clear that farming is very much a labor of love for them.
Watching the dogs work with the sheep was fascinating, but we also enjoyed having the opportunity to get closer to the animals ourselves. We were even able to pet and handle a sheep.
Our private experience cost about $120, and there was also a small shop where we picked up a few fun gifts. For us, this was much more than a sheepdog demonstration — it was an interesting glimpse into everyday rural life in Ireland.
Watch Our Sheepdog Demonstration
Wicklow Mountains
A Little Background
Wicklow Mountains National Park is the largest of Ireland’s national parks and the only one located in the east of the country. The landscape is a beautiful mix of rolling mountains, deep valleys, lakes, fast-flowing streams and open moorland, with narrow roads winding through some of the most scenic countryside in Ireland.
The area is also dotted with sheep, old stone ruins and historic sites, including the famous monastic settlement at Glendalough. For us, the appeal of the Wicklow Mountains was not one single attraction, but the scenery itself and the freedom to stop along the way and enjoy it.
The map below shows the general Wicklow Mountains area and some of the towns and routes through the region.
Our Experience
Having a private guide was an ideal way for us to experience the Wicklow Mountains without renting a car. It gave us the comfort and flexibility to stop whenever something caught our attention, without being tied to the schedule of a large bus tour.
Brian did a wonderful job of balancing driving time with scenic stops, giving us enough time to enjoy each place without making the day feel slow or tedious. We were also very lucky to have beautiful weather.
The scenery was breathtaking. Streams, heather-covered hillsides, sheep, scattered ruins and sweeping mountain views seemed to appear around every turn. This was one of those parts of Ireland where the journey itself was every bit as memorable as the individual stops.
Rush Hour in the Wicklow Mountains
Guinness Lake
Lough Tay, commonly known as Guinness Lake, is one of the most famous viewpoints in the Wicklow Mountains. The lake lies within a private estate historically associated with the Guinness family and is surrounded by dramatic mountain scenery.
We made a short stop at one of the overlooks above the lake, and the view was spectacular. Even though we were only there briefly, this was one of our favorite scenic stops of the day and, in our opinion, one of the most beautiful views we saw in Ireland.
P.S. I Love You Bridge
This small stone bridge near Sally Gap became known to visitors after appearing in the 2007 film P.S. I Love You. It is a quick scenic stop rather than a major attraction, but the surrounding mountain setting makes it worth a few minutes.
For the best view of the bridge, you need to make a short climb down over uneven ground toward the stream below. We enjoyed the stop, and of course Pink Bear had to pose for a photo.
Glendalough
A Little Background
Glendalough is a scenic glacial valley in the Wicklow Mountains, best known for its beautiful lakes and remarkably preserved early Christian monastic settlement. Founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century, it became one of Ireland’s most important religious centers. Today, visitors come for both the historic ruins and the dramatic mountain scenery.
Our Experience
Glendalough was our final stop of the day, and we only spent about 15 minutes here. We briefly walked through the monastic grounds and cemetery, admired the Round Tower, and made our way to St. Kevin’s Cross.
Also known as the Wishing Cross, tradition says that if you can wrap your arms completely around the cross and touch your fingers on the other side while making a wish, that wish may come true. Of course, we had to give it a try.
Although our visit was brief, it was a fun and memorable way to end our day in the Wicklow Mountains.
Pink Bear Retirement Rating
Kilkenny – 5/5 Wonderful medieval town. Lots of shops and restaurants. It is an extremely pleasant place to stroll around for a couple of hours
St Canice’s Cathedral – 4/5 Interesting cathedral worth visiting, but the round tower has restrictions that should be carefully considered before attempting the climb
Kilkenny Castle – 5/5 Beautifully restored and decorated castle.
Working Sheepdogs – 5/5 Pink Bear would give this activity more than a 5 if she could. It was fun and informative.
Wicklow Mountains – 5/5 Breathtakingly beautiful. Another experience Pink Bear would give more than a 5 if she could. In the summer, the hills are covered with fields of heather and dotted with sheep and ruins. The Guinness Lake overlook and P.S. I Love You Bridge are both worthwhile scenic stops.
Glendalough – 4/5 A nice stop with round towers, a cemetery and St. Kevin’s Wishing Cross. Worth a short stop if time allows.
Final Thoughts
This was one of those days that reminded us why a private guide can sometimes be worth the extra expense. Visiting Kilkenny, a working sheep farm and the Wicklow Mountains in one day would have been difficult for us without a car, and a large organized bus tour would not have given us the flexibility we wanted.
Having Brian as our guide allowed us to enjoy the day at our own pace. We could spend time wandering through Kilkenny, stop at places that interested us, enjoy the sheepdog demonstration and then travel through the beautiful Wicklow Mountains without worrying about driving unfamiliar roads or following a rigid tour schedule. That freedom made the day feel relaxed rather than rushed.
For travelers who do not want to rent a car in Ireland but also do not enjoy large group tours, a reasonably priced private guide can be a wonderful alternative. We were able to see places that would otherwise have been difficult to reach independently while still feeling like we were having our own adventure. For us, this was exactly the kind of travel experience we were looking for.
Tips
- Consider a private guide if you do not want to drive. Kilkenny and the Wicklow Mountains are difficult to combine independently in one day without a car. A private guide gave us the flexibility to see a great deal without the stress of driving unfamiliar roads or traveling with a large tour group.
- Allow some free time in Kilkenny. In addition to visiting St. Canice’s Cathedral and Kilkenny Castle, leave time simply to wander the medieval streets, browse the shops and stop for a coffee, snack or drink.
- Think carefully before climbing St. Canice’s Round Tower. The climb is by very steep ladders inside a narrow, confined space. If you are uncomfortable with heights, ladders or tight spaces, you may want to skip the climb.
- Include a sheepdog demonstration if possible. This was one of our favorite experiences of the day. The small working farm provided a much more personal look at Irish farming life than we expected.
- Build in scenic stops throughout the Wicklow Mountains. Some of our favorite moments were simply stopping along the way to enjoy the mountains, streams, sheep, ruins and views.
- Do not miss the Guinness Lake overlook. It only requires a short stop, but we thought the view was one of the most beautiful we saw in Ireland.
- Glendalough can work as a shorter stop. If you are fitting several experiences into one day, a brief visit is enough to see the main monastic area, Round Tower, cemetery and St. Kevin’s Cross. Allow considerably more time if you want to explore the lakes or walking trails.