TABLE OF CONTENTS
- General Background
- Ireland Background
- Practical Information for Visiting Ireland
- Currency
- Electricity
- Transportation
- The O’Grady Five W’s
- Who is Going
- When to Go
- Where to Go
- Where to Stay
- What to Do
- Packing Tips
- Tours and Sightseeing: Places We Visited
- Dublin
- Blarney Castle Day Trip
- Cahir – Cahir Castle
- Cork – Blarney Castle
- Cashel, Co. Tipperary – Rock of Cashel
- Northern Ireland
- Belfast -Peace Wall
- Carrick-a-Rede
- Antrim- Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle
- Kilkenny
- St Canice Cathedral
- Kilkenny city
- Kilkenny Castle
- Wicklow Mountains
- Working Sheepdogs
- Guinness Lake
- S. I Love You Bridge
- Travel to Galway
- County Offaly – Clonmacnoise Monastic Site
- Burren Day Trip
- Dunguaire Castle
- Hazel Mountain Chocolates
- Poulnabrone Dolmen
- Cliffs of Moher
- Kilfenora
- Connemara Day Trip
- Pearse House
- Kylemore Abbey
- Aran Islands
- Inis Mor
- Dun Aonghasa
- Seven Churches
- Athlone – Sean’s Bar
- Pink Bear Retirement Rating
- Final Thoughts and Tips
General Background:
With a surname like O’Grady, it is not surprising that Ireland was on our bucket list. The funny thing is that we are mostly Italian. Our surname comes from Tom’s grandfather who was part Irish. But we love being Irish, even if just in part. We were all so excited to finally be visiting the birthplace of our ancestors, even Pink Bear. Though Pink Bear is technically not Irish at all, as an adopted member of the family we still view her as part Irish! She was so excited about this trip that she jumped right into the planning.
Ireland Background:
The first thing Pink Bear did was research Ireland’s history, geography, and culture. We bought a guidebook, and we both searched the internet for information.
History:
Ireland’s history is long, complex, and often difficult. English rule followed a long Celtic heritage. Religious conflict, famine, and widespread emigration are also part of Ireland’s history. Most of Ireland gained independence in the early twentieth century, while Northern Ireland remained part of the United Kingdom. English influence is still visible throughout the country—in its castles, monuments, neighborhoods, and family stories—and it added another layer of meaning to our trip.
Geography:
Ireland is a little island with a lot to offer travelers. It is only 300 miles long and 150 miles at its widest point. It is home to the independent Republic of Ireland in the south and the Northern Ireland province of the United Kingdom in the northeast. The Republic of Ireland makes up the largest land area.
Culture:
Ireland is known for its lush green scenery, historic architecture, lively pubs, traditional music, and warm, engaging people. The Irish gift for storytelling and conversation is considered one of the country’s greatest attractions. We were looking forward not only to seeing Ireland’s famous sights, but also to meeting the people who bring its history and culture to life.
Practical Information for Visiting Ireland:
Two important considerations for traveling outside of one’s home country are currency and electricity, because both differ across the globe.
Currency:
The Republic of Ireland uses the Euro. We typically use our credit and debit cards globally, but we also carry some local currency for small purchases, tips, and places that may not accept credit cards. ATMs are also available in major cities. Because most of our trip would be in the Republic of Ireland, we obtained some euros before leaving home. The British pound is the official currency of Northern Ireland. For day trips I recommend credit cards if you do not want to obtain British pounds.
Electricity:
One of the things that frustrates Pink Bear the most when traveling abroad is electricity considerations. There are so many types of outlets and voltages worldwide. Since we travel so much, she even made a spreadsheet for us to keep track, but it is still confusing. We have a bin where we keep the plugs for the different outlets in labeled plastic bags.
Ireland and Northern Ireland use Type G outlets, the same three-pronged outlets used throughout the United Kingdom. The electrical supply is approximately 230 volts and 50 hertz, compared with 120 volts in the United States. Traveling to countries that use a voltage different than the United States requires careful consideration as to whether travelers need a voltage converter or a plug adapter for electrical devices.
Transportation:
International Air Travel:
As part of our retirement strategy, we try to use direct flights, when possible, even if they cost a bit more.
For this trip we flew nonstop on United Airlines from Newark to Dublin. We selected business class for the comfort of lie-flat seats. Since it was a Polaris flight, we had access to the lounge in Newark and Dublin.
Fast Track: For our return flight we also bought Fast Track. It was $13.99 per person. I am not sure it was worth it for our morning departure. We arrived at 6:30AM on a weekday and Dublin airport was not very busy at all. Maybe later in the day and/or on a weekend it would be.
Domestic Within Ireland:
Ireland offers tourists several ways to get around, although its public transportation system is not as extensive as those found in many other European countries.
- Irish Rail connects Dublin with major cities and towns such as Belfast, Cork, Galway, Limerick, Kilkenny and Killarney, but many routes radiate from Dublin rather than connecting smaller destinations directly.
- Buses provide broader coverage and are often the only choice for smaller communities.
- Within Dublin, visitors can use city buses, the Luas tram system, and the DART coastal railway.
- Renting a car or hiring a private driver offers the greatest flexibility, particularly for exploring the countryside, coastal routes and attractions found beyond the major cities.
Our Ground Transportation in Ireland:
Dowling Chauffeur Service: Because we were not renting a car, we also required a car service to transport us between Dublin and Galway. Based on internet reviews we selected Dowling Chauffeur Service. Brian Dowling provided excellent communication and options. We were extremely happy with Brian’s service. He is very personable, knowledgeable and attentive.
The O’Grady Five Ws:
Our retirement trip planning consists of the five W’s. When traveling we ask ourselves the following questions:
- Who is going
- When to go
- Where to go
- Where to stay
- What to do
Who is going:
Since this trip was about our family heritage, we decided the trip should include the family, Laura, Tom, Rob, and Pink Bear.
When to go: Season and Duration
Ireland has three main tourist seasons:
- Peak (June-August) warmest, very crowded
- Shoulder (April-May; September to October) cooler, less crowded
- Winter (Nov-March), quiet, cold, festive and crowded during holiday season.
Note: Expect rain during every season, especially in the west
Why We Chose Our Date in August and a Two-Week Trip
Things we considered when selecting our travel dates were: 1) the type of activities, 2) everyone’s schedules, and 3) airline prices.
7-Aug Selection
Peak Season: Pink Bear really wanted to enjoy the Irish scenery and spend time outdoors, we selected travel in the peak season.
August: It fit into our vacation schedule.
7-August: Offered the best business-class fare in early August. Booking early often results in better prices. Pink Bear watches prices for a few weeks before booking.
Two-Week Trip
Since Rob is still working, we decided two weeks would be the duration of the trip. This allowed us to see many sights but not be gone from home/work too long.
Where to go:
As already mentioned, Ireland is not a big island, but it has a lot to offer.
Why We Chose Dublin and Galway
West Coast/East Coast: As part of our retirement strategy, we do not like to move around too much. At our age it is hard to pack and unpack too many times. We are no longer in backpacker mode. Based on this we decided to pick one place on the west coast and one on the east as our bases.
Dublin: For this trip we selected direct flights into and out of Dublin. Therefore, Dublin would be our base for a week.
Galway: For the second week on the west coast, we selected Galway, since it is central and allowed easy access to the Cliffs of Moher, which was an important sight for us.
Where to stay:
Ireland has many accommodations ranging from private residences, large hotels, quaint Inns and Bed & Breakfast establishments. Private residences are good for families that want to spend relaxing time together and have the convenience to eat “at home.” Large hotels offer a lot of services such as dining choices, gyms, spas, and concierge services. Smaller Inns and B&B’s offer a more intimate charming experience. Staying in the heart of a large city is more expensive but it offers the convenience of being able to walk to many attractions.
Dublin: College Green Hotel
We decided on a hotel in central Dublin for the convenience and amenities. We selected the College Green Hotel. The College Green offers an excellent central location. It is in the heart of Dublin, across from Trinity College and within walking distance of many major attractions. It is also a Marriott property, which allowed us to receive the benefits of our Bonvoy Platinum Elite status.
It is a boutique hotel that is extremely classy. The service is excellent. There is a small fitness center but no spa. There are three restaurants, Morelands open for breakfast, the Atrium for drinks and tea and the Mint Bar for dinner. We really enjoyed all three.
Exterior of College Green Hotel
Lobby of College Green Hotel: Pink Bear was so excited to be here!
Atrium – Wonderful place to relax and have a drink or tea. They also offer an afternoon tea daily for a fee.
Morelands Breakfast Room – Excellent buffet breakfast each morning.
Mint Bar – Wonderful place for drinks and dinner.
Accommodations:
We chose a deluxe room with a balcony. These rooms are a little more expensive but if you would like a view of Trinity College, they are well worth it. The rooms are not large but very comfortable. The marble bath has a soaking tub and separate shower.
Galway: Airbnb
Since there are no Marriott properties in Galway we decided on an Airbnb. This allowed us some family time in the evening and gave us more space to spread out. Pink Bear found a two-bedroom, two-bath apartment with an ocean view that had excellent reviews. The apartment was in the Shoreline Apartments in the Salthill area. It was not directly in the city, but convenient to many areas of the city.
What to Do:
This is a big one since there is so much to do in Ireland. To simplify things and help us make decisions, we made a list of things we wanted to see and prioritized the items. The list was not exhaustive but includes the key sights that held our interest. Since we were not renting a car, we had to decide if we would visit from Dublin or Galway. We also had to decide if we would visit on our own or with a guide. Sights directly within the city of Dublin and Galway we would visit on our own, while places that were farther away or more complicated to reach would require a guide.
Dublin City Sights:
We picked the sights that we would see on our own on a map. On the map below are sights we decided to see on our own that were either within walking distance or a short Uber ride from our hotel.
For Dublin sights we planned to visit on our own, we bought most tickets in advance. In the busy summer months this is advisable.
Guide Services Beyond the City: Tours by Locals, Dubh Linn, Dowling Chauffeur Services
Once we had selected the things we wanted to see, Pink Bear began researching guide services. If you have been following our adventures, you know we like Tours by Locals. After reviewing the available tours, we selected three private touring days from Dublin and three from Galway to cover all our top priorities. We decided to use one guide for all our Dublin tours and another one for Galway. We hoped this approach would allow us to develop a relationship with each guide and create a closer connection to the area.
Dublin: Dubh Linn Tours, Brian Hennessy: Brian was an excellent guide. Very personable, knowledgeable and provided the right level of information.
Tours Selected:
- Blarney Castle Day Trip: Included Blarney Castle, Rock of Cashel and Cahir Castle
- Belfast Day Trip: Included Belfast Peace Wall, Dunluce Castle, Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge
- Best of Wicklow and Kilkenny: Included Kilkenny city, Wicklow Mountains Drive, Sheepdog Demonstration, Glendalough, Guinness Lake, P.S. I Love You Bridge
Galway: Derek Tours by Locals. Derek was a great guide. Very knowledgeable, pleasant and provided the right level of information.
Tours Selected:
- Cliffs of Moher: Dunguaire Castle, Hazel Mountain Chocolates, Coast Road, Cliffs of Moher, Kilfenora, Poulnabrone Dolmen
- Connemara: Pearse Cottage, Kylemore Abbey
- Aran Islands: Ferry to the Aran Islands, followed by an island tour and a guided walk to Dún Aonghasa.
Dublin to Galway: Brian Dowling provided all our transportation between cities, as well as to and from the airport. He was great to work with, personable and knowledgeable.
Tours Selected:
- Clonmacnoise Monastic Site (Dublin to Galway)
- Athlone (Galway to Dublin)
Packing Tips:
With the flights, accommodations, transportation, and tours arranged, our Ireland adventure was ready to begin. So, let us get packed! But what should we bring? Although we were traveling during the summer, Ireland rarely experiences what most Americans would consider hot weather. We had read that conditions could change quickly, with several seasons appearing in a single day. We therefore planned for mild days, cool evenings, and plenty of layers. Rain gear and sturdy walking shoes were essential. We were not planning any particularly formal dinners, but we had booked an evening show, so we packed a couple of nicer outfits.
- T-shirts
- Long-sleeved button-down shirts
- Jeans and other long pants
- Shorts
- Sweatshirt or hoodie depending on preference
- Undergarments and socks
- Capris and dressier shirts for evening (Laura)
- Cardigan sweaters one black, one white (Laura)
- Rain gear (poncho, jacket, umbrella based on preference)
- Walking shoes or sneakers
- Sandals (Laura)
- Type G plug adapters
- Voltage converter (if required for specific appliance)
- Tablet/iPad
- Laptop (Rob)
- Medications (prescriptions and over-the-counter cold products)
- Cash and credit cards
- Passport
- Travel-insurance documents
- Health Insurance Cards
- Toiletries
- Washcloth (smaller hotel and some private residences do not provide, particularly UK countries), our Airbnb did not have washcloths, so we were glad we packed ours.
Now that we are packed and ready to go, the following notes will become the individual stories of what we experienced each day—including what went according to plan, what surprised us, and which places became our favorites.
Tours and Sightseeing: Places We Visited
Dublin 7-8 Aug 26 Travel
We took a direct flight from EWR to Dublin. As part of our retirement strategy, we selected business class. Of course, O’Grady family vacations must start with a bit of turmoil. Our Uber ride to the airport was on time and there was only a bit of Friday summer traffic. Rob was coming from work, and he met up with us right on time. He almost forgot his passport, but it is a good thing mom saved the day by remembering it.
We got through check point in less than a few minutes. We were at the Polaris club, and Pink Bear was enjoying a drink and a lovely salad in no time.
Unfortunately, that is when our luck ended. Our board time was scheduled as 7:00PM but at 5:30PM there was a massive thunderstorm. The incoming plane already delayed by 1.5 hours was further delayed. So, we were delayed. What started as a 1-hour delay stretched to 4 hours.
But after a long delay we were in our little cubbies in business class. The equipment was a 777 with herringbone design seats. We always select odd number seats because these have the tray area in by the aisle with seat against the window. This gives full view out the window and the most privacy.
Since it was after 9 pm by the time we boarded, Pink Bear and I opted to skip the meal and just go to sleep. Our little business class cubby is one of our favorite sleeping places.
We awoke just before breakfast and with a cup of coffee in hand we watched the shores of Ireland come into view.
Immigration was very efficient and less than 15 minutes we were collecting our luggage. Brian was waiting for us just outside the exit and we were off to the hotel.
On our way I looked out the window and there was a door with my name on it! So strange. And even stranger my son’s name Rob O was next to it! Welcome to Dublin the spirits were saying.
Dublin City 8-Aug 2026
After we checked into the hotel, we took a nice walk to 14 Henrietta for our first Dublin sight. It was a nice way to get acquainted with Dublin. Dublin is a bustling, vibrant city. I can understand why it is overwhelming to some, especially at first, but it is important to embrace it, and it will feel amazing.
14 Henrietta St 8-Aug- 2026
14 Henrietta Street is a social history museum on Henrietta Street in Dublin, Ireland. The museum is sometimes referred to as the Tenement Museum.
Because our plane was delayed, we missed our 1 pm reservation, but the woman at the desk was nice enough to reschedule us for the 4pm tour.
We went back to the hotel and returned for our 4 pm tour. Our guide was very helpful and informative. We learned about the history of the Henrietta Street buildings.
Temple Bar 8-Aug-26
The Temple Bar area is a dining and cultural hub, featuring cobblestone streets, bars, restaurants and stores. It blends a medieval atmosphere with a tourist destination.
The Temple Bar Pub is one of the most popular and well-known in the district. It offers a lively atmosphere with traditional Irish music. They do not take reservations so plan for a wait.
Since it was a Saturday afternoon in August, the entire Temple area was packed. The bar itself was too crowded for our taste, so we just took pictures of the entrance and lobby.
Trinity College 9-Aug-26
Trinity College is Ireland’s oldest and highest-ranked university. It was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth.
Famous for the “Long Room” Library and the Book of Kells. There is a Visit Trinity App available for android and apple devices.
We absolutely loved our Trinity trails walking tour. We were a group of 17 participants and our guide was fascinating.
Book of Kells 9-Aug-26
Famous manuscripts that hold the four Gospels written in Latin. Created around 800AD. The Book of Kells Experience tour audio is part of the Visit Trinity App technology.
The Book of Kells Experience was amazing. It was a self-guided tour. We purchased the combination ticket for the Trinity Trails Tour and the Book of Kells Experience
St. Patrick’s 9-Aug-26
I made the mistake of scheduling our St. Patrick’s timed ticket on Sunday and we were running late. We had a 2 pm ticket and we were going to arrive around 2:30pm based on the tram schedule. Because it was Sunday the Cathedral closes between 2:30 and 4:30pm, so we missed seeing it.
We decided to walk to Christ Church instead, but there was an event when we arrived so only saw the outside.
Christ Church 9-Aug-26
It is situated in Dublin, Ireland, and is the elder of the capital city’s two medieval cathedrals, the other being St. Patrick’s Cathedral. I made the mistake of scheduling both our Cathedral tours on a Sunday. When we arrived at Christ Church there was an event going on so the inside was closed to tourist visitors. We walked around the outside and admired the beautiful architecture.
Celtic Nights Dinner Show 9-Aug-26
The show features award-winning traditional Irish music, high-energy step dancing, and a three-course a la carte meal.
Our Golden Circle seats were right up against the stage. I recommend buying Golden Circle seats if you want to be up close. The only thing is that you are so close. The dancers are practically on top of you. For part of the show, you are looking up.
There are several offerings for appetizers and main course. There are also sides that are extra. We ordered a side of bread. All the food was good.
The show consisted of Irish music and dancing intermixed. It seemed a little disjointed and the music was nice, but it seemed rather ad hoc.
Kilmainham Gaol 11-Aug-26
Former prison in Dublin, Ireland, that opened in 1796 and closed in 1924. It is famous for holding many leaders of Irish rebellions, featuring cold, dark Victorian stone corridors, and operating today as a national museum.
The tour took about 1.5 hours. It was very informative. We really enjoyed learning about the struggle for independence and the hardships faced in the early Republic.
Guinness Storehouse 11-Aug-26
A popular tourist attraction and museum at the St. James’s Gate Brewery in Dublin, Ireland, dedicated to the history, brewing process, and advertising of Guinness stout. It is housed in a seven-story building shaped like a pint glass. There are exhibits, tasting experiences and a Gravity Bar on the top floor. The Gravity Bar features 360-degree views of Dublin.
Blarney Castle Day Trip- 10Aug-26
We took a day tour to see Blarney Castle, Rock of Cashel and Cahir Castle. Brian our guide picked us up at the College Green Hotel at 9AM and we were off.
Blarney is about 3 hours from Dublin. We stopped in Cahir on the way there and the Rock of Cashel on the way back.
Cahir – Cahir Castle
One of Ireland’s largest and best-preserved Castles. Located on an island on the River Suir. Built in the 13th century.
This was our first stop on our journey to Cork. Cahir Castle is a real gem. It is not a big Castle or Keep but it is well preserved.
Blarney Castle
Blarney Castle is a must-do attraction in my opinion. There is so much to do in Blarney, if you have time I recommend an entire day. We only spent a couple of hours there and it was not enough time to fully enjoy the area.
At the entrance to the Tower house was a wonderful gentleman playing a bagpipe.
We took pictures of the Tower House and then got in line to kiss the stone. The wait when we arrived was about 45 minutes. Time seemed to pass quickly since there are interesting rooms on each level. To get to the top, you must ascend narrow spiral stairs. If you are claustrophobic or have trouble ascending steep stairs, I would not recommend the ascent. We however found it fun. To kiss the stone, you lay on your back and there are two grab rails to hold on to. The attendant guides you back towards the wall to kiss the stone with your head upside down.
After kissing the stone, we walked through the gardens and saw the outside of the manor house. It closes at 2pm so we could not see the inside.
Rock of Cashel
The Rock of Cashel, also known as Cashel of the Kings and St. Patrick’s Rock, is a historical site located dramatically above a plain at Cashel, County Tipperary, Ireland. According to local legends, the Rock of Cashel originated in the Devil’s Bit, a mountain 20 miles north of Cashel when St. Patrick banished Satan from a cave, resulting in the Rock’s landing in Cashel.
We arrived at the Rock of Cashel around 5PM and it was closing so we were only able to visit from the outside. It is an awe-inspiring sight.
Northern Ireland 12-Aug-26:
Our Northern Ireland Day trip started early at 7 AM.
Belfast
Belfast was our first stop on our Northern Ireland day trip from Dublin. Ireland is an island with a long history of political and religious struggle. On our journey through Ireland, we learned so much about the struggles and the suffering of those who were involved. Entering Belfast, we could feel an element of tension more than in the Republic of Ireland. We passed buildings covered with murals, British flags flying and pictures of the British monarchs everywhere.
Peace Wall
The peace lines or peace walls are a series of separation barriers in Northern Ireland that separate predominantly Irish republican or nationalist Catholic neighborhoods from predominantly British loyalist or unionist Protestant neighborhoods.
We stopped at a section of the Peace Wall and took pictures. It is a very moving sight. Brian was also kind enough to provide a pen for us to write our own message.
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge
Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge was first erected by salmon fishermen in 1755. It is a rope bridge near Ballintoy in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. The bridge links the mainland to the tiny island of Carrick-a-Rede. It is currently owned by the National Trust.
The view is spectacular and on a clear day Scotland can be seen in the distance. The walk to the bridge took about 20 minutes. It is a bit of a difficult walk on uneven terrain, some of it very rocky. It is not advisable for those with walking disabilities or health conditions. Pink Bear stayed behind on this one. With her penchant for getting into mischief, we felt it was best. Tom also was not comfortable with the rocky terrain and difficult walk, so he did not come all the way to the bridge.
Entrance on to the bridge is regulated by an attendant. We had to wait for a group to exit before we could proceed. The bridge is narrow and as the name suggests there are ropes on either side to hold on to. You cannot stop on the bridge and must walk straight across. It only takes a few minutes. It was a very beautiful experience. For those in good health I highly recommend it.
Antrim
Giant’s Causeway
The Giant’s Causeway is an area of approximately 40,000 interlocking basalt columns, the result of an ancient volcanic fissure eruption, part of the North Atlantic Igneous Province active in the region during the Paleogene period.
After the rope bridge, we headed to the Giant’s Causeway. There is a charge for entry to the Visitors Center, but to walk the causeway it is free. There is a paved trail from the Visitors Center to the Causeway columns. It is not difficult but does take about 15 minutes each way to reach the beginning of the area.
Since it was raining lightly, we decided to dry off and get some lunch. We had lunch at a lovely restaurant in the Causeway Hotel.
Dunluce Castle
One of the most picturesque and romantic castles in Ireland. The castle ruins date back to the 16th and 17th centuries. Our final stop on our Northern Ireland Day trip was Dunluce Castle. It is a very impressive site. There is a small fee for entry. Tickets are not needed in advance. We really enjoyed walking around this site.
Kilkenny 13-Aug 26:
St Canice’s Cathedral
Our first stop on this day trip was St Canice’s Cathedral. Rob and I got tickets for the tower. Rob made it to the top, but I did not. There is a height requirement for the tower, and you must be able to climb a series of steep narrow ladders to get to the top.
Kilkenny city
After the Cathedral we walked through the lovely medieval streets and stopped for coffee and scones. There are many little cafes and places to stop and get a drink in Kilkenny. Pink Bear really enjoyed stopping and sitting with a coffee and scone.
Kilkenny Castle
Kilkenny Castle was a real treat. It has been inhabited for many centuries and is decorated with authentic furnishings.
Wicklow Mountains
The largest of Ireland’s National Parks and the only one in the east, Wicklow features wide-open vistas, winding mountain roads and fast-flowing streams that descend into the deep lakes of the wooded valleys, including St Kevin’s monastic settlement at Glendalough.
There are small ruins scattered throughout and the views are beautiful
Guinness Lake
Lough Tay is a small but scenic lake set on private property in the Wicklow Mountains in Ireland. It is a popular scenic viewpoint. The lake is part of the former Guinness estate, owned by Arthur Guinness.
The view down to Guinness Lake is one of the best in Ireland in our opinion.
P.S. I Love You Bridge
P.S. I Love You Bridge is a small stone bridge found near the Sally Gap in the Wicklow Mountains National Park, County Wicklow, Ireland. It became famous after being featured in the 2007 romantic comedy film P.S. I Love You starring Hilary Swank and Gerard Butler.
The bridge is quite small and to get the best view you need to make a short climb to view it from the bottom. It is a nice quick stop and only takes a few minutes
Travel to Galway 14-Aug 26:
County Offaly – Clonmacnoise Monastic Site
A ruined monastery is on the River Shannon. This ancient monastery features many high crosses, including the Cross of the Scriptures, one of Ireland’s finest high crosses. There are also two round towers on the site.
Brian our chauffeur for this journey was nice enough to stop at this site. It was a nice place to stop to break up the trip. It is about 2 hours from Dublin. It is a very impressive site, and it was fun looking for the three high crosses. We found all three. The North Cross is just a standing stone, so we had a bit of trouble finding this one.
Burren Day Trip 15-Aug-26
This was our first west coast day trip. Pink Bear was very excited about seeing this wild, wet and windy side of Ireland and it did not disappoint.
Dunguaire Castle
Dunguaire Castle is a 16th-century tower house on the southeastern shore of Galway Bay in County Galway. It was built in 1520 by O’Hynes clan and restored in the 1980s, but it has been closed since 2023 and has fallen into disrepair.
This was our first stop on our Cliffs of Moher day trip. We walked around the castle outside. There is a little dirt path around the castle. It is uneven and overgrown but manageable to walk around. It was a nice photo stop but not much to see.
Hazel Mountain Chocolates
Irish chocolate crafted directly from sustainable cacao beans and located between Galway Bay and the Burren Mountains along the scenic Wild Atlantic Way. It is one of Ireland’s top food attractions.
There is a glass viewing area you can watch them make chocolates and a shop and small café. The café has coffee, tea and pastries.
Poulnabrone Dolmen
Poulnabrone Dolmen is an iconic 5,000-year-old portal tomb located on the limestone plateau of the Burren in County Clare, Ireland. Dating back to the Neolithic period around 3800 BC, it serves as Ireland’s oldest dated megalithic monument and contains the ancient-communal remains of over 30 individuals.
It was a surprise since and really an interesting site. Pink Bear had been so busy she did not do research on this stop, and it was a great surprise. She highly recommends it.
Cliffs of Moher:
Cliffs located at the southwestern edge of the Burren region in County Clare, Ireland. Formed over 320 million years ago. Famous for their staggering height and the dramatic drop into the Atlantic Ocean. Featured in films like Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince and The Princess Bride.
This was the main attraction of the day, and it did not disappoint. We had about an hour at the Cliffs of Moher. There is a long-paved path to walk along. It reminded me of the Great Wall of China. It is a relatively easy walk. It is a bit hilly and there are some steps but nothing very strenuous. The views are gorgeous.
Kilfenora
Kilfenora is a village and a civil parish in County Clare, Ireland. It is situated south of the karst limestone region known as the Burren. Since medieval times when it was the episcopal see of the Bishop of Kilfenora, it has been known as the “City of the Crosses” for its seven high crosses. It took about 5 minutes to walk through the small church cemetery.
Connemara Day Trip 2 16-Aug-26
Connemara
National Park in County Galway with scenic mountains, bogs and wildlife.
Because the weather was rather misty we did not get to see much of the beautiful Connemara. But what we did see looked very lovely. I wish we had more time in Galway. Due to the foggy, and rainy weather here on the west coast I think having the ability to have a flexible itinerary would be ideal. Unfortunately, since we had more limited time and no car we had to take pre-booked tours. On a future trip, I would try to build more flexibility into our time in Connemara.
Patrick Pearse Cottage
Pearse’s Cultural Centre is in Ros Muc, Connemara. It serves as a major cultural landmark.
The site commemorates Patrick Pearse, a prominent writer, educator, and leader of the 1916 Easter Rising. Pearse built a summer cottage on this landscape in 1909 to immerse himself in the Irish language and Gaelic traditions. Rosmuc was his summer retreat from 1903 to 1915.
Because the weather was wet and foggy the day, Derek altered our plans and we stopped here rather than spend more time exploring Connemara National Park.
It was a wonderful stop. Pearse was a fascinating man, and the cottage was very interesting to see.
Kylemore Abbey
The Castle and Abbey are located on a 19th-century estate featuring a neo-Gothic castle, a miniature Gothic church, and a six-acre Victorian walled garden. It was originally built as a private home by Mitchell Henry, sold to a Duke and later became a monastery. Kylemore Abbey is currently run as a Benedictine Monastery founded in 1920 on the grounds of Kylemore Castle, in Connemara. The Abbey was founded for Benedictine nuns who fled Belgium in World War I.
We really enjoyed visiting the Abbey. It was a Sunday, so we had the pleasure of attending mass. The grounds are breathtaking and the castle architecture is amazing. We loved learning about the Benedictine nuns and the work they do at the Abbey. It is incredible how they rebuilt this out of almost nothing. We visited the Connemara ponies, but we did not have time to visit the walled garden. Although it was a bit foggy, it only added to the effect and made for wonderful pictures.
Aran Islands Tour 17-Aug-26
Group of three rugged islands of the west coast of Ireland in Galway Bay. The islands are Inishmore, Inishmaan and Inisheer.
Inis Mor
We visited Inis Mor. Known for dramatic sea cliffs, stone forts and Gaelic-speaking cultures. Inis Mór (Inishmore) is the largest of the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland in Galway Bay. Spanning about 12 miles long and 2 miles wide currently with roughly 500 residents according to our local guide.
Two departure locations Rossaveel in Connemara and Doolin Pier in County Clare. We took the one from Rossaveel. It was a 45–60-minute trip to the ferry terminal. We arrived at the small port and walked around the town a bit before embarking on our van journey to the fort.
Dun Aonghasa
Ancient Stone fort on Inishmore. It is the largest of the prehistoric forts on the Aran Islands. It is over 3000 years old. Excavations have revealed evidence of prehistoric metalworking, houses and burials. This fort was one of the most interesting places we saw in Ireland. We had a couple of hours here. I think it may be nice to spend an overnight on this island. The fort is the main attraction, but I would have liked more time to get to know the island itself.
Seven Churches
The ruins of an important early Christian monastic site and pilgrimage destination. We made a quick stop of about 5 minutes. Small site but very interesting
Athlone 18-Aug-26 – Sean’s Bar
Sean’s Bar is certified by Guinness World Records as the oldest pub in Ireland, it was founded by an innkeeper named Luain.
Pink Bear Retirement Rating
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⭐️Ireland – 5/5 It is a vibrant and interesting country with so much to see and do. You can be as active or relaxed as you like.
⭐️ Dublin – 5/5 An exciting busy city with many historical sights, restaurants, museums, and cultural activities. It is easy to get around by foot or tram.
⭐️ Blarney Castle – 5/5 The Castle and grounds are beautiful. Those with walking disabilities or claustrophobia should not try the climb. Also, those with back or neck issues should refrain from kissing the stone.
⭐️ Rock of Cashel – 5/5 This is a very imposing castle.
⭐️ 14 Henrietta Street – 5/5 Wonderful piece of history, this tour is acceptable for all ages. There is a lot of information, but the movies and house scenes are interesting for everyone.
⭐️ Guinness Storehouse – 4/5 Fun experience, it is not a brewery tour so those expecting one may be disappointed but there is a lot to do.
⭐️ Kilmainham Gaol – 5/5 Gives a fascinating look into the early hardships of the Irish as well as those involved in the fight for freedom for the Republic. Although there is a lot of historical information younger children will still be fascinated with jail itself.
⭐️ Trinity College – 5/5 The college tour led by students and former students and is interesting and provides lots of information about the education system. It is acceptable for all ages and the walking is easy, but it is an hour tour so young children may get a little bored.
⭐️ Book of Kells – 5/5 Very well-done exhibit. Lots of information and a fun 3D experience. Great for all ages.
⭐️ St. Patrick’s Cathedral – NA we missed our tour. There are sometimes events on Sunday and masses, so the church is closed to tourism.
⭐️ Temple Bar Area/Temple Bar – 4/5 Wild busy area but fun. The area gets crowded; it is probably not acceptable for young children at night.
⭐️ Celtic Nights – 4/5 Nice show a bit off the cuff
⭐️ Belfast Day Trip from Dublin – 5/5 There is so much to see in terms of historical interest and scenery.
⭐️ Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge – 5/5 For those without walking or health issues. Otherwise, it is not recommended. There is a great deal of walking on uneven, rocky surfaces and the walk is long and the bridge is bouncy. Also closed when the weather is bad.
⭐️ Kilkenny – 5/5 Wonderful Medieval town. Lots of shops and restaurants. Interesting well-preserved and decorated castle.
⭐️ Galway – 4/5 Nice town with lots of restaurants and stores. Some historical things to see like the Spanish Arch.
⭐️ Cliffs of Moher – 5/5 Iconic scenic cliffs. There is a long-paved area but easy to walk it.
⭐️ Connemara – NA it was foggy. Be aware you cannot see much on rainy foggy days.
⭐️ Kylemore Abbey – 5/5 Beautiful architecture, well done exhibits. Accessible to everyone.
⭐️ Aran Islands – 5/5 Not for those with walking issues.
⭐️ Sean’s Bar – 4/5 A nice short stop for a drink, not for children.
Final Thoughts
Pink Bear and I had high expectations for this trip and Ireland far exceeded them all. We learned a tremendous amount about Irish history and the fight for independence. Even though our Irish roots come from only one branch of the family, learning about our heritage firsthand was very moving. We really felt connected to the history. For the people going through it, it was an exhausting struggle for survival and dignity. To be Irish and Catholic for centuries meant living in a system designed to break your spirit. Visiting historical landmarks like Kilmainham Gaol and the Pearse Cottage allowed us to really feel the fight. It gave us new insight and respect for our ancestors.
The beauty of the Irish landscape is almost indescribable. To call it the Emerald Isle is an understatement. The hills full of heather, green grass, trees and flowers are magnificent. There are cows and sheep grazing everywhere in the countryside. There are not only open green areas but vibrant cities. Dublin and Galway offer so much. Dublin has hotels, restaurants, pubs, museums, cathedrals, and Trinity College, offering a wealth of culture and learning. We were very happy with all that we saw and experienced in two weeks, but the trip left us yearning for more.
Tips
- Dublin can be overwhelming. Staying a few days allows you to adjust and get familiar with the city. At least two full days to see the attractions and experience the city is recommended.
- Staying in Dublin city center gives easy access to the sights on foot or tram.
- Be aware that major cathedrals like St. Patrick’s and Christ Church have masses and other events on Sunday and visitor access may be limited.
- Getting tickets ahead of time is advised in the summer season especially for Kilmainham Gaol.
- We really liked getting our pictures on the beer foam at Guinness Storehouse.
- Trinity Trails tour is well worth it, giving much more insight into the University.
- Spend at least a day or more in Northern Ireland. Belfast, the Peace Wall and Giant’s Causeway each deserve a few hours’ time.
- Carrick-a-Rede Bridge was a highlight but be aware it is a difficult trek to the bridge and over it. Also, it closes in bad weather.
- Connemara is gorgeous but be aware the visibility is limited in the rain and fog. Do not plan a day there if the weather is bad.
- The east coast of Ireland has much less rain than the west coast. Be prepared for more rainy days on the west coast. In a week on the east coast, we had no rain. On the west coast we had intermittent rain, but nothing to ruin entire days.
- Driving is on the left side and some of the areas in the smaller cities and out of town involve narrow one-lane roads.
- We felt at least two weeks were needed to see many of the sights in Ireland.
- At least a half day is needed for major attractions such as Blarney Castle and Kilkenny, with a full day to experience the town. Allow time to enjoy the cafes and pubs.
- For a future trip we would like three weeks split among four different locations. This will allow us to spend more time leisurely enjoying things.
- We were happy with all our private guides, Brian from Dubh Linn, Derek from Tours by Locals and Brian Dowling. I would recommend all of them without hesitation.